Fengguo Temple, first built in the ninth year of the Kaitai era of the Liao Dynasty (1020), is a national treasure praised by Liang Sicheng for its millennium-long history. Free from the hustle and bustle of commercialization, the entire main hall itself is a living museum of Liao Dynasty artifacts.
The Mahavira Hall is the largest surviving nine-bay Liao Dynasty hall in China, its 48 massive wooden pillars joined entirely by mortise and tenon joints, without a single iron nail. The ingenious architectural structure of the Liao Dynasty craftsmen has allowed the hall to withstand earthquakes and wars, standing for a thousand years.
The attendant bodhisattvas in the hall are the most captivating, their crowns and robes possessing graceful lines. The gold leaf paintings have peeled away with time, revealing the simple clay body; when the sidelight shines obliquely, the statues are half-lit and half-shadowed, their mottled and damaged appearance possessing a beauty refined by time—a testament to the saying "imperishable despite ruin."
Forty-two Liao Dynasty flying apsara paintings remain on the beams, their brushwork still retaining Tang Dynasty style, making them extremely precious and rare.
Over the course of a thousand years, it has endured numerous calamities. The legendary unexploded shell that landed inside the temple in 1948 adds a layer of historical weight to the ancient temple.
Without the bustling crowds, Fengguo Temple stands quietly and desolate. Only by standing beneath the massive trees and ancient Buddha statues can one truly feel the faith and craftsmanship hidden within the painted beams and sculptures of the Khitan artisans.