We'd spent three days at Abelana -- itself an unforgettable place -- before moving to Beck's for a further three days of bush experience. Johan and Adelina were welcoming and easy hosts, who were always willing to check in on how we were doing, what we'd seen and to share their extensive knowledge of the bush. Our guide was Sandy and Oriel our tracker -- they could not have done more to provide the most memorable three dawns and sunsets -- especially on our last morning drive, where they left no stone unturned to get us close to a very elusive leopard, but no cigar, unfortunately. We did see the big five. really up close, (although the first and only leopard sighting was distant in low light. Lion, cheetah, buffalo, giraffe, nyala, kudu, bushbuck, squirrels -- you name it. One of the highlights was probably the up-close-and-almost-very-personal contact with the main elephant bull, who made it clear we should move out of his way. The other had to be the bush walk with Bethwell and Oriel, where we learned an enormous amount about bushes, plants and their uses as well as tracking and animal behaviour. The accommodation is world-class; the staff are cheerful, warm and efficient and the food is excellently prepared and presented. -- And very generous! We'd have liked just one light option on the menu, especially at lunchtime. If anyone were to ask my opinion on how to spend a week in the Phalaborwa area, I'd recommend exactly what we did, without hesitation. Can't wait to get back!